Nov 13th, 2026 Friday Cloudy
Tucked in the southwestern corner of Puerto Rico, seemingly miles away from the hubbub of tropical beaches, surfers, and the grandeur of Old San Juan, lies the Cabo Rojo national wildlife refugee.
Due to the damages from hurricanes a few years ago, the interpretive visitor center and a large portion of the area remained inaccessible when we visited. Fortunately, the unit we were most interested in was open.
So here we are. Salinas de Cabo Rojo – the Cabo Rojo Salt flat.
During high tide, the ocean water from the Caribbean, only steps away, rushes in and fills the shallow lagoon. When it retreats during low tide, the torching sunbeam, together with the pushing winds, causes quick evaporation, leaving behind a marvelous gift from nature – the crystallized salt in its pristine shape.
Of course, some European settlers who realized the economic potential of this phenomenon took advantage of it to set up an operation, later grown into the salt industry. As the free labor required to continue profiting disappeared, natural forces slowly erased the mark of human intervention, and wildlife took residence.
As this was a rather remote spot, quite a distance from the nearest town and barely any visitors, I felt like entering an otherworldly site. The drier climate in this part of the island, compared to the lushness at El Yunque, primed me to view it as a desert.
In contrast, a colorful landscape unfolded before my eyes. A pink hue, not so vibrant as neon, but distinct enough from the endless blue around, captured my breath. The still surface reflecting the clouds in the sky, against the backdrop of rolling waves, filled me with awe.
Even more inspiring was the source of this rather unusual coloring. At first, I suspected industrial pollution, though I was pleasantly surprised to learn that, several microorganisms living in this unique ecosystem are actually responsible for the tint. Each of them prefers slightly different conditions – a combination of salinity, temperature, and sunlight – and gives various color tones in return. Had we chosen to walk by a couple months later, we might be drowning in the deepest pink sea 😛
I stood on the narrow path built for early salt harvesters. The unbearable heat, the high UV, and the strong breeze felt prohibitive to me. I could not imagine living in such a harsh environment – just staying for ten minutes could be exhausting for someone not used to the outdoors.
Nevertheless, in this vast stillness, there is life, albeit in quite a dissimilar form. These hardy algae and bacteria survive and make their presence known, creating a magnificent picture for the few lucky and daring souls who come ready to admire.
Then I am reminded of many similar cases. No matter how tough the situation seems to be, some survivors persist. Unwilling to give in, they adapt, shift, and stick to the end. In the process, their resilience and perseverance win them another chance, and another one.
This is beauty, in its primordial state, that lasts into eternity.